Kojic acid has been a popular ingredient in skincare for over a century, but its widespread use in Nigeria has raised some concerns. To get to the bottom of this, I spoke with Desire Uba, a pharmacist, cosmetic scientist, and skin educator who has dedicated her life to helping Nigerians feel more confident in their skin.
The Science Behind Kojic Acid
Desire explains that kojic acid, derived from fungi, has been used for 117 years to brighten skin, fade dark spots, and even out tone. “It works by reducing melanin production, which is what gives skin its color, by attaching to a key enzyme (tyrosinase) and reducing its function,” she says.
Benefits of Kojic Acid
But kojic acid is more than just a brightening agent. It also has antimicrobial benefits, which can help preserve skincare products and even help during pregnancy. Desire notes that hormonal changes during pregnancy often lead to hyperpigmentation, making kojic acid a great option during this time.
Is Kojic Acid Too Powerful?
Desire acknowledges that kojic acid can be too harsh if not used correctly. “One product is enough. You don’t need to layer three kojic acid products on your face,” she advises. “Start slow, maybe with a wash-off cleanser or a mild serum, and build up. Signs of overuse include redness, itchiness, rashes, and a compromised skin barrier. If your skin starts acting up, pull back.”
The Legal Limits of Kojic Acid
Kojic acid is generally considered safe when used correctly, but regulatory bodies like NAFDAC have recently cracked down on products exceeding the maximum allowed limits. In Nigeria, Europe, China, South America, India, and the Philippines, the maximum allowed limit is 1%. In the USA and South Korea, the limit is 2%.
5 Well-Formulated Kojic Acid Products
Here are five well-formulated kojic acid products that are safe and effective:
1. Topicals Faded Brightening and Clearing Serum
* Contains kojic acid, azelaic acid, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid
* Clinically proven to even skin tone, fade dark spots, and soften texture
* Moisturizing and gentle enough for daily use
2. Topicals Faded Bar
* Formulated with kojic acid, azelaic acid, lactic acid, and vitamin C
* Fragrance-free and enriched with shea butter and glycerin
3. Urban Skin Rx Even Tone Super Glow Serum
* Contains kojic acid, vitamin C, ferulic acid, and niacinamide
* Perfect for layering under daily moisturizer and SPF
4. Touch Bright and Clear Cream
* Highly concentrated and loaded with pigment-correcting actives
* Includes aloe vera juice and glycerin to balance out the formula
5. Coscient Chemist Pigment Corrector Cream
* Packed with seven active ingredients, including kojic acid, tranexamic acid, and niacinamide
* Lightweight and fragrance-free, making it ideal for daily use
Kojic Acid Alternatives for Sensitive Skin
Not everyone’s skin agrees with kojic acid, but there are alternatives that can provide similar benefits. Desire recommends looking into:
* Alpha Arbutin
* Azelaic Acid
* Thiamidol
* Niacinamide
* Cysteamine
* Vitamin C
Spotting the Red Flags in Skin-Lightening Products
Desire is passionate about protecting Nigerian consumers from dangerous skincare practices, particularly with the boom in skin-lightening products. “One of the biggest issues with misuse is the potential for endocrine disruption, specifically in the thyroid,” she cautions.
How to Shop Safely
Desire provides some solid advice for shopping safely:
* Avoid unlabeled products and those with untranslated descriptions
* Watch out for metallic smells and cream or grey discoloration
* Steer clear of ‘miracle’ claims like “7-day whitening”
* Read ingredient lists
* Avoid mercury-laced ingredients like “calomel” or “mercurous”
* Buy from trusted stores only
Conclusion
As kojic acid continues to trend, the key takeaway is not just to follow the hype, but to follow the science. By using kojic acid correctly, being mindful of its potential side effects, and shopping safely, Nigerians can enjoy the benefits of this powerful brightening agent. With the right knowledge and products, anyone can achieve brighter, more even-toned skin.
